Day 26

Distance covered: 42 km
Total distance 4246 km

I turned 26 today and it was one of the most simple and yet spectacular birthdays that I have celebrated - no parties, no festivities, only the appreciation of life and the joy of being alive. What we saw today was a glimpse of paradise but what made the day special were the inhabitants of this paradise. I have just had the opportunity to meet some of the sweetest people and nothing is as satisfying as experiencing human warmth and joy. The air of informality and gaiety in the Sikkim tourism office is infectious. They had called an impromptu press meeting and the response was, quite simply put amazing not in terms of numbers but in enthusiasm and understanding which is all the more impressive. There were four extremely young, excitable and fun guys and one old lady who is younger in thought and the zest for life than most teens I have met. The air was casual and they seemed to sense what I was trying to accomplish here. On finding out it was my B’day they broke into an instant song and the grand old lady actually gave me her pen saying it was from one writer to another. Couple of them claimed to be inspired by the idea, which means a lot. The fact that T.T who generally can’t be bothered about others and doesn’t care a hoot for what others think was touched by their attitude and that says a lot. Mr. Dong from the Tourism office gave us free accommodation and food at Pemayagtse for the two days that we will be there. Their well wishes and their attitude left me a little overwhelmed. The entire experience with the people of the hills from the chai shops, to the lodge owners, to the people on the street has been very pleasing and that alone makes this place tops in my heart. And of course lets not forget what it is really known for - its unsurpassed beauty.
We visited the most stunning sight I have seen (I haven’t really seen all that much - yet). We left at 9 am for Changu lake and were back only in time for the press meet at 4 pm but Changu is all the beauty you can handle in a day. They do not allow private vehicles and bikes towards Changu because the road is in restricted army area and is frequented by avalanches, landslides and treacherous climate (Kaya would have done it easily though if only they had let us). So we shared a cab with 2 Indian families and drove down to Changu. The climb is as exciting as it is beautiful, driving right on the edge with waterfalls beside you and streams crossing the path. You catch spectacular glimpses of the road winding and turning as it snakes its way across the misty mountaintops offering you an awesome perspective of the journey ahead. The majestic Himalayas come into view and the snow-capped peaks are revealed further and further by the minute. You can only wait with bated breath as you get closer to your destination. And what a sight it is, far and beyond all I had imagined or dared to expect after the disappointments of the last few days. Located at 12,100 ft the frozen lake is surrounded by white peaks vanishing into the clouds. The ice is very thin and people are not allowed to step on the lake, which only adds to the allure and aura of mystery exuded by Changu. For those interested and too lazy to walk there is the excitement of Yak rides. I have a theory about the Indian traveler and that is they don’t travel. They never move more then 50 feet from where they are dropped off and never look at anything from a different angle. So at any crowded destination just walk a few paces down the road less taken and you shall find all the solitude required. I decided to scale the highest peak around the lake and now in hindsight it was quite dangerous and extremely dumb. But rash stupidity is my specialty. Off I went - off my mind that is - and before too long I was all-alone. The snow was untouched and the only disturbance in the whiteness was my own trail and the few branches graving out of the snow. It felt like I was going where no man has gone before. The excitement gave way to exertion and trepidation, as the going suddenly got tougher. The air was getting colder yet I was sweating and a couple of times I sank deep into the snow, finding it very difficult to extricate myself from it. But I had to reach the top, the summit, the pinnacle - it became my personal Mt Everest. The snow was getting into my boots and my feet were painfully cold. But it was worth the effort. The view from atop was mind numbingly beautiful but then again that could have just been the cold. You catch an awesome view of the lake spread out before cradled between gorgeous hills. I had a moment of panic on the way down when the snow get into my books and they wouldn’t come off. I thought my feet would get frost bitten but after some frantic tugging I managed to get them off. A few steps later I slipped and came hurtling down the hill with only a few branches to break my velocity. After the initial fear it is absolutely exhilarating beyond words and the only complaint was from my frozen bum. The clouds began to descend soon after and I left Changu my feet cold but my heart warm with joy.