Day 43

Distance covered: 396
Total distance 8141 km

Awoke with the suns first rays washing over the horizon, eager to get to Etawah and the Chambal National Park., home to the rare Gangetic dolphin and my favourite animal, the wolf. I have waited with bated breath for my first encounter with these free spirits and I’ll have to wait some more because I couldn’t find the park let alone the wolves. There can be a number of reasons for this d none are amusing. (a) it never existed (b) it’s the best kept government secret (c) in fact it’s so secretive they themselves have forgotten where it is (d) it is of such great importance to national security if they show you they’ll have to kill you (e) the local populace is so jealous of it they don’t want anyone to see it. Whatever the reason no one in Etawah or the vicinity has a clue about its existence or they just weren’t in a mood to be helpful. The only information they had to give was that three is a forest but the only wild animal you are likely to spot is the dacoit and they aren’t all that interesting. Dejected and tired but with nowhere to go we decided to ride all the way to Agra. The ride is quite good in terms of the road but the dust and the heat are both killers. We were determined to salvage the day by catching sunset over the Taj and rode nonstop till we reached Agra and the tourist rest house. Lonely planet is a great book but every hotel that gets mentioned in it develops a chip on its shoulder and a higher tariff card. A quick shower later we were racing to the banks of the river Yamuna on the north side of the Taj. With the sun setting very fast I rode like a man possessed and cannot recollect the last time I was so excited about anything. As we approached the taj, we must have still been a good distance when both of us gasped simultaneously as we caught sight of a large marble dome - our first sight of the Taj. A moment later we both let out a scream of absolute awe and joy as we caught sight of an even larger dome that put the first one to shame - it was the real Taj Mahal. Motor vehicles are not permitted within 5km of the monument but bikes are always an exception so we rode past the east gate and parked on the banks of the river. With the sun sinking along the river length and the Agra fort in the background with the Taj looming over us we had an eyeful of the most spectacular vision man has ever imagined and natures grandeur enhancing it. The streets of Agra are very similar and as much a maze as that of Varanasi though not nearly as crowded or fascinating. We found ourselves riding in circles for a while before we could find our guesthouse for a well-deserved sleep. I am still breathless and in awe of her splendor as I sit down to pen my thoughts.

Day 42

Distance covered: 81
Total distance 7745 km

We slept in late after a long time and needed the extra sleep. It was close to noon by the time we reached Lucknow’s most famous edifice the Bada Imambara and the sun was merciless. The complex, built by the Nawabs four large and very beautiful buildings each unique from the other in style and purpose, all enclosed within a large high compound with enormous and magnificent triple arches inlaid with work. On stepping in through the archway you are greeted by a second set of archways, equally splendid with steps rising up to them. The main compound lies beyond the second archway and immediately to the right is a huge mosque with large domes and towering minarets. It was prayer time and the mosque was teeming with believers. There is a colonnade leading from the mosque to the giant Imambara or meeting hall, which has ornate walls and domes. The high roofed hall is a balcony on all four sides with intricate trelliswork from which the women can watch the proceedings. The balcony and hall have some amazing acoustics. Standing at one end of this long hall you can hear the guide tear a piece of paper or light a match at the other end. If only our modern day theaters had such good sound - so much for dolby digital. The piece-de-resistance is the ‘Bhul-Bhulaya’ a labyrinth that confounds and boggles the mind with its deceptive simplicity and sinister motive. It is a maze of identical hallways and doorways that lead you on and on till you are hopelessly lost or running in circles. There is only one true path, which acts as an escape route for the ruler in times of trouble. Last and equally fascinating is the Bauli, a seven story building built not upward but downward with a flight of stairs leading to the centrally located well. The well is supposedly bottomless and perennially fed by the river Gomti. The structure consists of levels of archways and narrow stairwells leading from one level to the other. During the rains some of the levels get submerged. The entire complex is steeped in tales that are too fantastic to believe but make for some amusing listening like the story that each day the people would build it and the Nawab would have it broken down by night so that there would be work for people on the following day. Just outside the complex is another large ornate building now the office of the archeological survey and leading to these two buildings, looming over the road is the Rumi Darwaza. Virtually a symbol of the city it towers 60 feet and overlooks the other great monuments like a sentinel. Also around the same area are the Chota Imambara and the Shah Najaf mosque. With its exquisite chandeliers, gilt-edged mirrors, colorful stucco on the interior and golden dome with exquisite calligraphy it is an ode to grandeur. From here we moved on to the Residency, which is a visual commentary on one of the most poignant incidents of our struggle for freedom. There is more to be felt and perceived here than actually seen with most of the complex in complete ruin, a few buildings proudly standing, bearing the scars and ravages of war. The Residency was the seat of British life and it was here that European men, women and children awaited their sad fate during the revolt of 1857. There are a number of dedications to the men who died here including a tomb for Sir Lawrence. Unfortunately, today it is used by the local populace for blatant sexual activity, which disgusts me. The sun went down on these relics of our history leaving me with shadows from the past. Met Mamba again and went to get a taste of lucknows renowned Tunde Kebab.

Day 41

Distance covered: 346
Total distance 7664 km

We took in another beautiful sunrise and an excellent breakfast before leaving for Sarnath about 10km away. Sarnath is a town of great importance to the Buddhist. It is where Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment and is also the site of the first Buddhist sanga. Like most old Buddhist sites the complex is a gigantic graveyard of bricks and one can only imagine the true grandeur of the entire area with its great stupa - the top is in ruins but the lower circle is mostly intact though all the statues and carvings are missing. Next to the complex is a more recently built Buddhist temple, simple and yet interesting. The surrounding area houses a Bodhi tree, which is surrounded by statues. There are also life size statues of Buddha giving a sermon to s disciples. On the whole though there isn’t too much to appreciate or impress about Sarnath. Dwain got a great deal on a real trippy mandala the price of which started at 1800 and came down to 500.
We returned to Varanasi and immediately left for Lucknow a good 300 km away. Ended up driving like a mad man because we wanted to reach there before nightfall and there was nothing eye catching except for all the dust. After a good 6 ours of riding and way past sunset we reached Lucknow and checked into a lodge way out of town. We were dog gone tired but we had to savor the famous cuisine of the Nawabs of Awadh so we met up with Mamba a good friend of mine for a classic meal. I’m going to bed stuffed like a pig.

Day 40

Distance covered: zero
Total distance 7318 km

One of the most important and holy ritual at Varanasi is the dip in the sacred river as you catch the first rays of the sun and there was no way I was missing sunrise. By dawn we were down by the river and on our boat for a ride along the length of the river taking in the different Ghats and the devotees performing their sacraments. It was a beautiful morning and our boatman and guide, Hero, gently rowed us along her waters. You can hear the temple bells ring and the occasional chants otherwise all is quiet as you observe people make their offerings and wash away their sins in the river. You go along each Ghat - a flight of stairs leading up to the river with a temple at the top of the steps, built in different periods by different kings for different Gods. When it rains the steps river rises immensely and the entire steps are submerged. There are even shrines of different religions right besides each other in complete harmony, each respecting the others beliefs. There are more than 300 temples on the banks besides the numerous palaces. The one that fascinated me the most was at the main Ghat. It is closest to the river and tilts at a precarious angle. The palaces are mostly abandoned or in state of disarray with a few of them even converted to guesthouses. We drifted down the river and under the bridge up to the last Ghat - a good 3-hour ride - and decided to walk back the entire way through the delightful maze that is the streets of Varanasi. This end is not where the tourists or the pilgrims come and we got a glimpse of the real Varanasi from its vegetable market, cattle sheds and sweet shops to the hardware stores. The streets are indescribably fascinating - narrow, intertwined, mysterious, dirty and yet beautiful. I have no idea why but I have fallen completely in love with this side of the town. A very amusing thing about the place are the children who all smile at you and say ‘Hello’ in complete foreign accents. It is like their own secret rite and they love posing for photographs. It was a while before I realized we were walking through the streets, lost and wandering with absolutely no sense of directions as they intertwine among each other leaving you disoriented. Every time you think you’ve figured it out or find something that looks familiar you are proven completely mistaken and the walk back took more than 3 hours but there wasn’t a dull moment through out. You know you have entered the tourist zone when the hawkers start approaching you. The restaurants here serve you every possible cuisine-Korean, Japanese, Thai and European catering to every taste. You spend a lot of the walk side stepping dung, insane cyclists and runaway cattle. There are cows all over the place walking peacefully as if they own the road - which in some ways they actually do - taking up most of the road and laying minefields as they pass by. We spent most of the afternoon watching the river and trying to get an essence of her as the sun slowly bade goodbye. We were back strolling the streets before too long and heading for the main Ghat to watch the daily Grand ceremony conducted to worship the great Ganga. The elaborate, mesmerizing and mystical lasts a good hour and makes great viewing. This was followed by a an amazing dinner at Lalitha’s place, a restaurant with great service, great food and the most trippy ambience with a roof top restaurant. The streets can seem quite scary at night and as we walked back they were completely deserted and eerie with the buildings seeming to close in on you, but it only your imagination running wild.
I have always wondered why so many tourists visit Varanasi and now I have my answer. I have to leave tomorrow and it fills me with great sorrow. I could quite happily stay on here for a long, long time.

Day 39

Distance covered: 295 km
Total distance 7318 km

Varanasi is the mystical land of strange customs and stranger people, magic, strong beliefs and full of surprises. The first surprise of the day though was the road. Bihar actually produced a stretch of road that didn’t make me wince. It was far from perfect but at least the majority of the distance was covered on smooth roads. The dust and dirt though were getting worse and worse still. You can most probably create a miniature beach or desert landscape with the dust we scraped off ourselves. In some places the dust blowing across the road leaves you blind. In spite of all this we made Varanasi in good time and great spirits. Just as we approached the bridge I caught my first sight of the holy Ganges and it is a moment that will stay with me forever, not because of what it looks like but because of what it symbolizes to a billion Indians. I did not know what to except from Varanasi, which is a good thing because it is near impossible to picture or understand Varanasi even after being there. To start with it must be the only town in the world located on a river but developed only one bank. While one side is over populated and congested the other is barren and unsettled with a few groves of trees just so that the faithful can see the sun rise over the horizon. Once across the bridge the traffic gets absolutely chaotic, with the roads teeming with people and rickshaws. It is really tough getting Kaya through the narrow lanes but we finally reached Godilia and turned towards the river.
My enthusiasm was steaming out of me in anger by then but suddenly the magic of Varanasi had me captive. The paths are extremely narrow and lined with old buildings, which are both shops and apartments. The roads only wide enough for a single bike and that too leaves the pedestrians pressed against the wall. In a lot of places the roads actually pass under buildings. The entire place is a maze and it is quite easy to find yourself clueless as to where you are headed. I cannot describe what it looks like let alone feels like but it is all extremely fascinating and somehow exciting, in spite of all the filth around you. It is like no other Indian town I have ever visited. We checked into Vishnu guesthouse right on the banks of the river on Pandey Ghat. It was packed with foreign backpackers and has a café, a room with a balcony and a cooler, all over looking the river for just Rs.200. I hadn’t shaved in a month and was looking quite rough, so both of us decided to pretty up a bit. As I was walking back to the guesthouse I was accosted by many young men all wanting to know what my preferred choice of drug was. Next thing I know I am walking through small lanes and find myself at a music store with its curtains drawn. A minute later we were inside and I realized it was an opium den with a couple of foreigners taking a hit. The music is just a front. We chilled there for a while checking out the scene.
After getting cleaned up we went out to experience the magic of Varanasi and was it ever magical. We went down to the river and walked along her banks taking in the different sights and sounds. The entire place is unique with its old palaces, temples and buildings lining one bank while the sun sets along her length. You can spend days walking along her banks and still find yourself entrapped by the rituals and the people. The Ganges basin is said to be the most polluted river in the world, declared septic and yet thousands of people come here to purify themselves by taking a holy dip. Here you can see the power of faith at its strongest. Varanasi is the abode of lord Shiva and is therefore a home for some of the most eccentric and unusual sadhus you will ever get to see. All of them in their ascetic clothes with their trishul, urn, bowl and glowing chillam, some of them completely covered in ash, some naked, with weird hairdos and even weirder forms of penance. The sadhus are allowed to smoke ganja as it is part of their ritual and is associated with the worship of Shiva. You can actually pick up weed at the government shop. We strolled down to the cremation Ghat. This is where scores of Indian come every day to burn there loved ones and pray for their salvation. We sat down and watched the entire ritual for a long time, which is supposed to be good for the karma. We were sitting their watching the ‘eternal flame’ when this guy comes up to us and gives us a very interesting perspective about the ritual. There is no odor from the burning flesh because lord Shiva himself passed down the flame, which is stored within the temple. The ashes and what is left unburned - the chest in the case of man and the buttocks for women are thrown into the river. There are six types of people who are not cremated but are tied to a stone and drop into the river- cobra victims, holy man, children, lepers, smallpox victim and pregnant women. There are a million different stories each more interesting then the other but these are what you have to go and discovered for yourself. You meet different people and immerse yourself in their yarns about Varanasi. We burnt floating candles and released them into the river adding to the hundreds of shimmering lights already floating around giving the water a very beautiful and ethereal look. There are a large number of pilgrims who come here but the people who really spent time trying the figure the place out are the tourists. Some of them have been here for months and still find themselves lost, some even more so as time goes by. The pilgrim comes here, prays and leaves without a clue as to why he is doing all this. It is very strange place even for an Indian. The main problem in Varanasi if you ignore the filth are people trying to sell you everything from boat rides to drugs, chai, candles, guides postcards and memorabilia. In a way it is as much a part of the experience as everything else but it can get quite troublesome with guys following us and one particular dude even threatening to slit our throats. We had to have a quick dinner and return to the guesthouse because of a 10 pm curfew as the streets are supposed to be unsafe after dark with tourists disappearing every couple of months.
Another amazing fact about Varanasi - it is a place for all faiths all you need to be is a believer. You find people from all faiths coming here to perform last rites.

Day 38

Distance covered: 96 km
Total distance 7023 km

I have only now come to appreciate the magic of rising early. Under the gaze of a fresh new sun, with its light spreading out like a growing halo everything appears so calm and lovely. We set out for Bodh Gaya very early and were there before the sun could even fully make his presence felt. It is a small town that exists mainly on pilgrims and tourists. The site where Buddha attained Nirvana, it is revered by Buddhists and is one of their holiest places. There is a large Maha Bodhi Temple in a huge complex with numerous stupas, all brilliantly carved though many are broken. The temple houses a giant gold Buddha but the exteriors are plain with most of the carvings missing. The centerpiece though is the Bodhi Tree under which he attained enlightenment and under it is the sandstone throne dedicated by the king. The place exudes peace and we spent a good deal of time setting under it. A lot of Asian Buddhists come here with their children to conduct holy rites. While we were there a large group of Thai kids were being inducted as monks and we watched the ceremony with growing fascination. We also came across what Dwain calls ‘Tourist monks’, carrying their cell phones and the latest cameras. The complex also houses a large water tank with a Buddha statue in the center and is filled with giant catfish for some strange reason. What I really loved about Bodh Gaya are the Buddhist monasteries from across the globe. Every country with a Buddhist population has set up a monastery in their own style and traditions. It is not only a brilliant exhibition of various architectural styles but also of their religious practices. The temple from Taiwan and China were very simplistic and stark with the former housing a laughing Buddha, while the Sri Lankan and Cambodian monasteries were still under construction. The Tibetan and Sechan monasteries were colorful and exciting like most of the monasteries I have visited in Sikkim and Darjeeling. The walls were resplendent in their artwork and also housed one of the largest prayer wheels I have seen. The Thai monastery on the other hand looks very cool and funky with its multiple level sloped tile roofs licking out like flames reaching into the sky and the doors are inlaid with intricate bodhisattvas. The interiors are covered with some of the most trippy paintings yet seen. The two best temples though are the Bhutanese and Japanese; each poles apart from the other. While one is breath taking in its work the other is an ode to elegant simplicity. I love the Japanese buildings with their sweeping roofs, large sliding doors and tranquil interiors. Their aesthetic sense - the carpet, lighting and aroma make it wonderful. The Bhutanese monastery is the most spectacular from the exterior and interior. It has a three level-stepped pagoda with very brightly painted relief work where the paintings look life like and appear to be leaping out of the wall. All the temples are similar in that they have paintings that describe important events from the Buddha’s life. I can’t decide for sure which is the best but I definitely have a soft spot for the Bhutanese monastery because we spent the night there. Bodh Gaya offers of variety of cuisine ranging from Japanese to Korean in authentic style to cater to a large proportion of tourists coming from there.
As we leave Bihar I am more then surprised and very impressed by their reaction and interest in our expeditions. But as a reminder of the realities of Bihar, Gaya about two km from where we were was sacked by dacoits last night. A large group of dacoits cordoned off an entire part of the town and robbed about 40 houses. The entire operation took them a few hours during which they beat up a couple of few people and even shot off their guns but the police did not arrive till after they had left. I’m glad we were put up at a monastery, as it is the last place anybody would try to rob.

If you want to visit Bihar please do it without a second thought. Just don’t do it by road.
Today was spent at the holiest of Buddhist sites and tomorrow we go to the holiest of the holy for Hindus - Varanasi.

Day 37

Distance covered: 165 km
Total distance 6927 km

After the previous days trial by fire Dwain Developed a very serve back cramp and was in a lot of pain. I thought we would not be able to go on that day but he put on a brave face and off we went to Rajgir where the Bihar Tourism had arranged accommodation for us. The 105 km took us a good 3 and a 1/2 hours but compared to what we had been through yesterday the road was worth kissing, but someone else decided to show his love for the road. Riding through the jungle that is Patna traffic we had our first accident. On a narrow strip of road - not that there are any wide strips - one over optimistic dude decides to overtake a bus and comes straight at us. With some acrobatic steering he managed to miss my handle by a whisker but couldn’t beat the side bags and a second later he was embracing the road and kissing it - not very lovingly I must say. I stopped the bike a few feet ahead, my heart in my mouth imagining myself beaten to a pulp. People rushed to him and a moment later he was up. Seeing that he was all right and with nobody paying any attention to us we decided to scoot from the scene of the crime. Dwain must have been ruing his decision of riding with me, I’m sure this is more excitement than he bargained for. The rest of the journey was uneventful but the roads have sudden bumps and a lot of small settlement so the going was slow. For the second day in a row Bihar Tourism has provided us with excellent rooms for free.
Rajgir is a small town nestled amidst a range of hills- it even boasts of a ropeway - Buddist and Jain Temples and the major traffic consists of tongas. We rode around the town and then headed for the famous Nalanda University dating back to the forth century AD. One of the oldest and most celebrated seats of learning with an immense library, it housed 10,000 monks and was a center for astronomy, medicine, astrology, mathematics, sciences and philosophy, which flourished till sacked by the Persian invaders. It was lost to man, mysteriously disappearing with only tales of its greatness mentioned by famous travelers keeping its memory alive till discovered and excavated in early 1900. The ruins are extensive with only a portion as yet uncovered let alone discovered. You can only stand there, wondering and picture in your mind how the place was when infused with life. The greatness and grandeur of this bygone era is but a wisp of memory that all our imagination fails to bring to life. All that remains are brick walls and the complex is like a maze with rows of rooms built a top each other. There are some structures that are built on the ruins of others and you can see distinct styles of architecture revealing the different times of construction. None of the stone structures or statues remains either destroyed, buried or stolen with the few remaining ones now in museums. The centerpiece of Nalanda was and is the famous stupa which is now nothing more than a giant heap of bricks with three flights of stairs leading up. The sight of it makes you curse man’s desire for war and his abuse of religion. It is only when you look at the computer generated image of what the stupa may have looked like that you perceive the true scale and breathtaking splendor of the site and wonder how anybody could destroy something of such amazing beauty. We left the site and visited a Thai monastery in the vicinity. We stopped to enjoy a beautiful sunset while a man lovingly washed his buffalos in the waters reflecting the orange and pink hues of the sky, in front of us with toddy tappers scaling their palm trees in the background. On reaching Rajgir I worked up the courage, shutting off my mind for a while to head into the main market of Rajgir and see what the people of Bihar are really like. I was a little apprehensive as I got down at the sweet shop to savor the tastes. Kaya was in the limelight and had attracted a huge gathering, adding to which was Dwain a gora. But before I could begin to worry, their tentative smiles and genuine inquisitiveness left me relaxed and chatting away. The owners were really nice and treated us to some of their specialties. We then encountered a similar situation at the fruit shop where we went to buy some mangos with children gathering around us wearing shy smiles. That’s when you realize that a few bad apples have caused the entire basket to be declared rotten. Till now Bihar has only been a disappointment in terms of the road. The people have been great - curious, friendly and kind- tomorrow heading into Bodh Gaya I only hope nothing changes but the road.